The Guide: Cleansers
All cleansers have the same basic function to remove dirt, sweat, excess oil, makeup, bacteria, pollutants from the air, and dead skin cells. However, picking the right cleanser formulated for your skin type and conditions is super important and the foundation of all other skincare steps.
The main thing I recommend is making sure it is appropriate for your skin type/concerns followed by if you like it and your budget.
You'll know a cleaner is not right for you if you feel tight, dry, itchy or that your face may crack if you smile! It doesn't matter the skin type - you should feel clean and refreshed after cleansing, not dry. Squeaky clean feeling = the skin has been stripped of its natural and necessary oils.
A word on bar soap
Bar soap is usually the first thing we washed our faces with as kids so why wouldn't it be good? Most people have heard the term "pH" back in high school chemistry. Here is a refresher in terms of skincare. pH stands for "potential of hydrogen" which is the measure of how acidic or alkaline a product is. This scale ranges from 1, being the most acidic, and 14, being the most alkaline with a ph of 7 that is considered neutral. The natural and optimal ph of skin is slightly acidic and is around 5.5 and ideally, a cleanser should be around that ph.
The pH of bar soap is around 9 which is very alkaline or basic. Skin that is too alkaline will be dry, dehydrated, fragile, and have accentuated wrinkles. I've found people that use bar soap regularly to cleanse their skin usually have very dehydrated skin with wrinkles and stubborn blackheads that are holding on for dear life! No thanks to all of that! And even the old-time fave Dove soap is a smidge better being around 7, but still too alkaline for a truly balanced skin.
Types of Cleansers
Gels
Gels are refreshing and perfect for cleansing the skin thoroughly without over-drying. They are best for combination and oily skin types. For skin with acne, it's nice to give the skin a break from the harsh and drying ingredients used in typical acne cleansers like benzoyl and salicylic acids.
Milks + Creams
Cleansing milk is great for dissolving makeup and cleansing the skin but is also known for its moisturizing properties. Milky cleansers are good for normal/balanced, dry, and sensitive skin types.
Cleansing creams also fall into this category but are much richer in consistency and best for very dry and mature skin types.
Both of these types of cleansers may be used in two ways. Applying to dry skin and wiping away with a tissue or cotton pad. Or applied to the skin and rinsed away with warm water for a traditional cleanse.
Foams
Since the natural oil in our skin is a wax-like consistency, people with very oily skin need a cleanser to really break down that oil and thoroughly cleanse the skin. Foams are by far the most cleansing and best for oily and acne-prone skin types.
Cleansing Oils + Balms
The oil cleansing method works by the "oil attracts oil" philosophy by breaking down excess oil all while still nourishing the skin. They are used by applying to dry skin and massaging into the skin, breaking down oil and makeup. It may be wiped off with a tissue/cotton pad or even a clean warm wet washcloth. This cleansing method is best for makeup wearers with sensitive, dry, mature, combination, and eczema-prone skin types.
Cleansing balms are the thicker more emollient cousin to cleansing oil. Personally, I like a cleansing balm because it's just so creamy and dreamy on my skin! They are especially great for dry and very dry skin types.
Exfoliating Cleansers
Exfoliating cleansers generally have beads in them that range from jojoba esters to micro-pumice. Personally, I am not a fan and don't recommend them to clients. Exfoliating cleansers tend to be one of two things in my opinion - too much or too little. Either there is more cleansing gel versus the number of beads in the formula giving the illusion you are exfoliating your skin. (Which is more of a marketing tactic.) Or it's too aggressive to be exfoliating every day which will lead to dryness and stripping the skin of its natural oils.
Active Cleansers
Active cleaners are wonderful for treating skin conditions like acne, dullness, hyperpigmentation and have many anti-aging properties. These may include enzymes made with papain (from papaya) which helps to break down dead skin cells. Or anti-aging and brightening acids such as lactic and glycolic. Typical acne cleansers will contain benzoyl and salicylic acids to kill bacteria, break down what is clogging the pores and dry out acne. Sulfur cleansers are also really great for acne as well as rosacea skin as it aids in calming inflammation and killing bacteria. Just be aware that sulfur is a common allergy so test patch!
Here are some examples!
Sensitive skin
Cream, milk, or oil/balm cleanser - particularly in a sensitive formula
Dry skin
Cream, milk, or oil/balm cleanser
Active: Lactic cleanser to slough off flakey skin cells
Combo skin
Gel cleansers or an active cleanser with glycolic acid or enzymes
Oily skin
Non-Active: Gel, foam, or salicylic acid cleanser
Cleansing Tools
Silicone Cleansing Tools
I am a fan of silicone cleansing tools because they are gentle and silicone is non-porous so it doesn’t harbor bacteria.
Loofahs
Not a fan, they are too aggressive, scratchy and they hold bacteria. Enough said, ouch and ew.
Konjac sponges
A sponge without the square pants. These sponges are actually made from a Japanese root vegetable and used to cleanse and lightly exfoliate the skin. When wet they are mild, remove makeup and give you a nice glow. However, be aware they do have a shelf life and should be tossed after about a month, it is a vegetable after all!
The Double Cleansing Method
The double cleanse is an old-school esthetician facial practice as well as popular in most Asian skincare cleansing methods. The thought is to first remove and break down any excess makeup, dirt, and oil then thoroughly cleanse the skin.
Oils and balms are also perfect if you practice the "double cleansing" method. This is to first use an oil cleanser followed by a second cleanse with a water-based cleanser like a gel.
If you just get right in there with a cleanser and don't remove makeup first you will essentially just be smearing all that junk around your face and into your pores. Ideally, remove makeup first with a gentle makeup remover or micellar water. I recommend oil-based makeup removers for mascara and full coverage foundation wearers.
The Proper Water Temperature
An old wives tale was to wash your face with hot water to "open" pores and at the end of cleansing splash your face with cold water to "close" pores. This has been a long-time belief by many and has been passed down from generation to generation, but it's actually incorrect! Pores do not open and close as they do not have involuntary muscles, which makes that physically impossible. What does happen is since natural sebum in the skin is waxy in consistency, hot water "melts" the oil and allows products to penetrate better and oil to come out. The opposite is true for cold water on the skin, it basically solidifies the oil. This means hot water will strip the skin of natural oils drying the skin and cold has a harder time breaking down dirt, oil, and makeup.
The ideal water temperature is warm - even lukewarm. If you wash your face in the shower, do it last and turn the water to an appropriate temperature.
Do you I have to wash my face both morning and night?
Eh, not really. Unless you have super oily skin, it’s not necessary to wash your face in the morning if you don’t want to or feel the need to. If you give yourself a good cleanse in the evening before bed and you have slept on (what I hope) are clean sheets, how "dirty" could have gotten? If you have dry, sensitive, normal, or dehydrated skin you can totally get away with a simple splash of water or a few sprays of toner on the skin before applying day products and SPF. It will add some hydration and overall it's great for the skin to bask in its natural oils.
Pro-Tip
If you tend to get clogged pores or break out around your hairline and near your ears, reevaluate your cleansing technique. The normal motion when most people wash their face is in a circular motion ending right at the ear, hairline, and jaw area. Essentially you are pushing the dirt, makeup, bacteria that you are trying to wash off right into that area. And since it is an area that is hard to see is the side of the face, all that junk could be settling there!
