Why “acne-safe” is a misleading skincare trend

I often see my peers providing recommendations and advice on selecting products that are “acne-safe.” However, it's important to approach these claims with a nuanced understanding and a critical eye. Despite the best intentions, assertions regarding the absolute safety of certain skincare and makeup products for acne-prone skin aren't always rooted in definitive facts.

Determining whether a skincare product or makeup is truly "acne-safe" involves several complexities due to the skin's individual nature and complexity and the myriad factors that contribute to acne. Here are some reasons why it's challenging to definitively label a product as universally safe for acne-prone skin:

1. Individual Skin Responses

Everyone's skin is unique, with varying sensitivities, allergies, and reactions to ingredients. Throw in any underlying health conditions, certain medications can mitigate acne, while others could potentially exacerbate it or the current condition of the skin. What may cause breakouts in one person might not affect another, making universal claims difficult.

2. Complexity of Ingredients

Skincare and makeup products often contain a long list of ingredients. While some ingredients are known to be comedogenic (pore-clogging), their effect can vary depending on their concentration, the formulation of the product, and how they interact with other ingredients or the skin's natural chemistry. The dose makes the poison! Just because a product includes certain ingredients doesn’t automatically make it unsafe for acne-prone skin.

3. Lack of Standardized Testing

There is no standardized, universally accepted test to determine if a product is acne-safe. While some ingredients have been tested for comedogenicity in lab settings, these tests may not always accurately reflect how a product will affect human skin in real-world conditions. Especially because non-comedogenic testing is performed on the backs of people, not faces.

4. Changing Formulas

Cosmetic and skincare manufacturers may change their formulas without notice. A once-safe product for your skin might be replaced or supplemented with something that triggers your acne.

5. Hormonal Influences

Acne is most often influenced by hormones, which are affected by factors beyond skincare or makeup, such as diet, stress, menstrual cycles, and medical conditions. Therefore, hormonal fluctuations can still cause breakouts even if a product is non-comedogenic.

6. Environmental & Lifestyle Factors

External factors like humidity, the weather throughout the year, pollution, diet, stress levels, and even how often you touch your face or clean your phone screen can influence acne development. These factors can interact with product use in unpredictable ways.

7. Overuse or improper use of a product

How a product is used—how much, how often, in combination with what other products—can affect its impact on the skin. For example, over-exfoliating the skin impairs the skin’s barrier, which can lead to acne.

Making Informed Choices

I totally understand this might be a hard pill to swallow. Given these complexities, it's advisable to patch-test new products and introduce them into your routine gradually. You can absolutely ask for skincare or makeup samples when shopping before investing in an entire full-size product. Look for products labeled "non-comedogenic," "oil-free," or "won't clog pores," as these are generally formulated with acne-prone skin in mind and tend to be less likely to cause acne. However, remember that these claims are not guarantees. Observing how your skin reacts to a product over time is the most reliable method to determine if it's safe for your acne-prone skin.