The Guide: Sunscreen
Let’s start with the fact that up to 90% of skin aging is contributed to UV exposure from the sun or tanning beds. Plus, the much bigger and scarier risk of skin cancer.
UVA + UVB Rays
Ultra Violet Aging - UVA rays cause premature aging, wrinkles, sun spots/freckles, and can pass through window glass. Ever notice that your left arm is tanner than your right? Those UVA rays pass right through a car glass window.
Ultra Violet Burning - with UVB rays you are more aware you are receiving them, as they are responsible for sunburn and are blocked by window glass.
Also, a common misconception is not feeling it's necessary to wear sunscreen on a cloudy day. UVB and UVA rays still pass through clouds so you still may receive a burn and skin damage.
What is a Tan and Sunburn?
A tan is the result of the skin's defenses kicking in. When UV light hits the skin, it damages the DNA of skin cells causing them to produce melanin to protect the cells. That basically means if the skin is tanned the DNA and the skin are already damaged. This is also why people with darker and olive skin types tan versus burn - it's because they naturally have more melanin in their skin compared to fairer skin tones.
A sunburn, on the other hand, is more extreme skin damage. It's from the overexposure to the sun and/or the reaction people with less melanin and fairer skin tones experience. Peeling skin from a sunburn is the body's way of getting rid of damaged skin cells that are at risk of potentially becoming cancerous. While red and peeling skin is looked at as aesthetically annoying, it's actually your skin protecting itself.
Aging + Skin Cancer
Most importantly an overexposure to UV rays causes cell DNA mutations which can lead to skin cancer. UV damage isn't only skin deep, it affects the dermis layer of the skin and as we age our bodies naturally produce more melanin, this is what gives our hair, eyes, and skin color. That means freckles, sun spots, and "age spots" will come out of the skin from sun damage we may have encountered back as a child or teenager. Also, UV damage breaks down the collagen and elastin resulting in sagging skin tone and wrinkles. In all my years as an esthetician, I can't tell you a number of times I have seen people look significantly older than their age because of sun damage.
Darker skin toned? Though melanin can give some protection, it can't protect you from everything! Sure lighter skin tones have a higher incidence of getting skin cancer. But darker skin tones can and do get skin cancer. Particularly vulnerable areas include under the fingernails and toenails, on the palms of the hands, and on the soles of the feet. Not so fun fact, Bob Marley died after a four-year battle with melanoma skin cancer that started on his toe.
Want to see something pretty crazy? This is a photo of a Wood's lamp, it's used to measure sebum, dehydration, certain skin conditions, and pigmentation in dermatology or by estheticians. This person looks to have pretty normal-looking skin with some freckles on the regular side of the photo, but under the Wood's lamp, you can see significantly more sun damage.
Types of Sunscreen
Chemical (Organic) Sunscreen
These types of sunscreens absorb into the skin, they work by absorbing the sun's UVA and UVB rays. Here is the list of common chemical sunscreen active ingredients:
Oxybenzone
Avobenzone
Octisalate
Homosalate
Octocrylene
Octinoxate
Physical/Mineral (Inorganic) Sunscreen
Physical sunscreens mostly absorb the sun’s UVA and UVB rays and reflect a small amount. Here is the list of common physical sunscreen active ingredients:
Zinc Oxide
Titanium Dioxide
Inactive Sunscreen Ingredients
There are plenty of other functional ingredients in sunscreen formulas that help to emulsify, moisturize, stabilize, preserve or smooth out the sunscreen on the skin. While we're used to seeing ingredient lists in order from highest to lowest concentration, sunscreen follows a different set of guidelines. They can be ordered from highest to lowest concentration or in alphabetical order. Ultimately, in the end, it's up to the brand.
Medications / Topical Products + Sun Sensitivity
There are several medications and topical products that can make your skin more sensitive to sun exposure. Many people are unaware of this, but it's something to consider if you happen to be using any of these.
Skincare products - Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide in most acne products. Any AHA product - glycolic, lactic, etc.
Essential Oils - Angelica, Lavender, bergamot, and any citrus - grapefruit, lemon, lime, orange/wild orange, and tangerine.
Antibiotics - Tetracyclines (minocycline, doxycycline, tetracycline) or Fluoroquinolones (ciprofloxacin, ofloxacin, norfloxacin)
Pain Relievers - Ibuprofen (Advil) and Naproxen (Aleve or Midol) (Surprising I know!)
Retinoids - Topical creams typically used for acne and anti-aging like Retinol, Tretinoin, Retin-A, and Differin. Accutane is taken in oral form.
Depression Medications - like Elavil (amitriptyline) and Sinequan (doxepin)
Diuretics/Water Pills - Lasix (furosemide)
Spray Sunscreens
As for aerosol spray sunscreens, there are some things to keep in mind. In order to get a good even coating, you will need a good 3-4 applications for it to be effective. Spots are often missed if there is a breeze the spray drifts into the air and doesn't stick to the skin.
Coconut Oil As Sunscreen
We have all heard how coconut oil and other oils can be natural sunscreens. Unfortunately, this information has been spread around the internet by misinformed people that don't know the science and facts behind it. Don't get me wrong natural ingredients are awesome, but the problem with natural oils as sunscreen is they don't contain suitable UV blocking ingredients. They do not absorb UV rays at the right wavelengths. Plus, they range from an SPF 1 to at best an SPF 7, which is pretty insignificant when you are talking about actually protecting your skin. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends an SPF 30 to be adequate and if you want natural there are plenty of options out there!
SPF Number
Some shocking news - that number on the sunscreen bottle isn't the level of protection you will receive. The sun protection factor number on the bottle is the minutes you can be in the sun without getting burned.
10 minutes without any protection on your skin to burn X SPF 30 = 300 minutes of protection. Remember to take into consideration sweating and swimming for reapplication!
Proper Application
If you are planning a day outdoors I recommend applying sunscreen at your home/hotel and applying while naked! The reason I say this is if you already have your swimsuit or tank top on chances are you will miss spots.
No sunscreen regardless of strength should be expected to last all day long so reapplication is needed.
Sunscreen in Makeup
While a two-in-one makeup with SPF product sounds like a lazy girl win, if you are serious about protecting your skin it simply is not enough. In order to receive an adequate amount of sun protection, a thick even full layer of makeup needs to be applied to the entire face. The proper amount needed is way more than you would typically use. Unfortunately, it’s just not real-life usage.
Other Ways to Protect Yourself
Wear sun-protective clothing and hats
Sit in the shade
Avoid being in the sun when it's the strongest times of the day, 10 am - 4 pm
Wear UV-absorbing sunglasses
What About Vitamin D?
This is a tricky question because only you can answer it since you know your lifestyle better than anyone else. If you are going from your house to your car to an indoor office and back home you probably don't need to wear it 24/7/365. It is great to get a little sun exposure from time to time and you absolutely need to have some time to be exposed to vitamin D! However, if you are a college student and are walking around a college campus all day for 4 years you should probably be wearing sunscreen daily!
