Skincare Routine Steps
A big part of an esthetician’s job is creating a custom skincare routine for their clients to meet their skin’s needs, lifestyle and budget. And from my experience, there are roughly three types of people - the “I want to keep it as simple as possible”, the “I want a well-balanced essential routine” and the “I want all the skincare things!” So I have created three separate routines with steps and the order they go in - the minimalist, essential and full skincare routine steps.
Please note, if a particular routine or order works for you or have been told differently by your skincare provider that is completely fine! This is based on general best practices that I have been taught in my esthetics training, continuing education, and working with brands over the years. There are no hard rules, you can mix and match steps if your heart desires and these are my suggestions and how I’ve put together routines for my thousands of clients.
Feel free to screenshot or save these graphics!
Cleansing
Oil or Balm Cleanser, Micellar Water or Makeup Remover
Often referred to as the “oil cleansing method” or “double cleansing.” This involves using an oil or balm cleanser (balms are oils combined with waxes to make them thicker.) Since oils are lipophilic, meaning they’re naturally attracted to other oils it is an effective way to break down excess sebum (oil), makeup, and skincare/SPF. An oil cleanser is massaged into dry skin, a small amount of water is usually added to emulsify and wiped away with a warm wet washcloth and followed by a second cleanse with a water-based cleanser.
Micellar water is a water-based solution with suspended micelles (tiny balls of cleansing oil) that attract and breakdown sebum, makeup, and skincare/SPF.
Water-Based Cleanser
Water-based or soluble cleansers come in many forms like foams, gels, and creams. They cleanse mainly with surfactants (they degrease and break down oils) and they wash away with water. Surfactants get a bad rap but a well-formulated and well-balanced cleanser will have appropriate levels of surfactants along with other hydrating ingredients.
Here is a blog post dedicated to cleansers and here are some of my favorite cleansers.
Toner
In the 80s and 90s toners were used to help balance the pH of the skin and were often very astringent with drying ingredients like simple alcohols and witch hazel. They have thankfully evolved since then and today are used to add beneficial ingredients to the skin and help prepare the skin for the better absorption of serums and moisturizers. They come in many forms like acid-based toners (which is technically an exfoliant), flower waters like a hydrosol, balancing toners, etc.
Here is a blog post dedicated to toners and here are some of my favorite toners.
I’ve combined exfoliants and masks because there is overlap with masks that are actually exfoliants.
Exfoliant
There are three main types of exfoliants - physical, acid, and enzyme. All of which come in a variety of forms, for example, an acid exfoliant could come in a cleanser, toner, serum, mask a treatment, or professional strength peels.
While there are different benefits and ideal skin types/conditions for each type of exfoliant the goal for all of them is the same. Resurface, brighten and smooth the skin, help unclog pores, stimulate collagen, lighten hyperpigmentation, and smooth texture.
Depending on your skin and the type of product you are using exfoliation maybe recommend as little as once a month for someone sensitive or as often as 2-3 times a week.
Masks
Masks also come in several types and vary in benefit. They could be non-setting and creamy and provide a lot of moisture for the skin, they could be made from clay which draws out excess oil from the skin or maybe they are actually an exfoliant and contain enzymes or acids. They are a nice to have step in your routine but not essential for skin health.
Here are some of my favorite exfoliants and masks.
Retinoid
Retinoids are one of the most studied and effective ingredients in skincare. They are a form of vitamin A which makes them an excellent antioxidant (they aren’t an exfoliant!) and are most often recommended for anti-aging and acne. They help to speed cellular turnover, help fade hyperpigmentation, stimulate collagen, clear acne, even and smooth skin.
This includes non-prescription products like retinol or Adapalene (Differin) which are sold without a prescription. And Tretinoin which a healthcare provider needs prescribe to you (in the United States).
It’s by far one of my favorite ingredients so I have an entire section on my blog dedicated to it. So if you would like to read more check out my retinoids section.
Here are some of my favorite non-prescription retinoids.
Serums
Facial serums are the most concentrated and result drive product in skincare and there is a serum for just about every skin concern you can think of like hydration, aging, brightening, etc. They are usually water-based but not every brand’s naming cadence is the same and some brands refer to face oils as serums (just something to keep in mind.) Sometimes they come in a super basic one key ingredient formulas like niacinamide or hyaluronic acid. Sometimes they come in formulas that address multiple concerns and contain a synergistic blend of ingredients.
One of the most common types of serums are antioxidant serums like vitamin C. Antioxidants fight off free radicals like the UV rays from the sun, pollution, smog, smoke, etc.
Here are some of my favorite serums.
Eye Cream
Eye creams are specifically formulated for the thin and delicate skin of the eye area. There are people that say eye creams aren’t necessary and are just expensive moisturizers in tiny jars. Sure, they have the same overlapping moisturizing ingredients as a face moisturizer, BUT often at different percentage levels suitable for that delicate skin. In many eye creams, you will find ingredients that specifically treat eye area concerns like caffeine for puffiness or vitamin K for brightening which you typically don’t find in face moisturizers.
Here are some of my favorite eye creams and eye products.
Moisturizer
Moisturizers are combinations of humectants (water-binding), emollients (prevents water loss and has a softening and soothing effect on skin), and occlusive (form a barrier on the skin.) A daily moisturizer is essential to keep your skin's moisture barrier intact and to protect it from environmental damage. Moisturizers come in a wide selection of ingredients and textures like rich buttery creams, light lotions, gel-creams, oil-free versions, etc.
Here are some of my favorite moisturizers for all skin types.
Neck & Décolletage Cream
By no means is a neck cream essential but it’s a nice product to have to help with “tech neck” lines, crepiness, sun damage, and vertical sleeping lines on your chest.
My fav is the ALASTIN Skincare Regenerating Neck Complex.
Face Oil
Face oils can be one or a blend of plant oils to help soften the skin and prevent transepidermal water loss. Because they only contain oil versus humectants, emollients, and occlusive like a moisturizer so I don’t recommend relying on a face oil for all of your skin’s moisture needs. They are really nice if they are layered or mixed with moisturizer for an extra moisture boost!
Here are some of my favorite face oils.
Spot Treatment
Spot treatments are an as-needed type of product that are either creams or gels and often contain salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide to help heal acne. Hydrocolloid pimple patches are more of a newer option for spot treating since they tend to be gentler.
Here are some of my favorite spot treatments.
Lip Care
Since we don’t have oil glands on our lips and the skin is much thinner they tend to dry out a lot quicker. Wearing lip balm with SPF is definitely recommended for the daytime!
Here are some of my favorite lip products.
Sunscreen
Sunscreen is pretty much the most important step in a skincare routine since the majority of aging is from UV rays and the even scarier risk of getting skin cancer. It’s recommended to wear a broad-spectrum SPF 30 on a daily basis and reapply throughout the day. (protects you from both UVA and UVB rays.) WEAR IT!
Here are some of my favorite face sunscreens.
