Tretinoin vs. Adapalene: Which Is Better For Aging?

A common question I receive is if Adapalene (Differin) can be used for anti-aging benefits. Both are retinoids. And both are in their "ACTIVE" metabolic form. This means they do not need to be converted to retinoic acid as retinol does. They simply start working from the get-go.⁣⁣⁣⁣

Next, we have six retinoic acid receptors. These are RARα, RARβ, RARγ, RXRα, RXRβ, RXRγ (see diagram below.) If we want maximum anti-aging benefits, we need to ensure that our topical can easily bind to all six receptors. Unfortunately, that's not always the case. Adapalene is a little weak and can ONLY bind to two of the six receptors. While tretinoin can bind to ALL six receptors. This makes tretinoin the ultimate winner when it comes to anti-aging. Once tretinoin binds to all six receptors, it is able to increase cellular turnover, stimulate collagen, and increase the thickness of the dermis, all of which will give us anti-aging benefits.

When applied topically, Adapalene is only able to bind to TWO receptors, while Tretinoin can bind to all SIX receptors.

THIS is why tretinoin is the ultimate holy grail anti-aging ingredient. However, note that this also makes tretinoin the most irritating compared to other retinoids. But this can easily be taken care of with a good moisturizer and SUNSCREEN!!

Adapalene also works a little differently. It slows the process of hyperkeratinization or excessive growth in the lining of pores, and it also desensitizes the skin to inflammation. Studies indicate that adapalene has less irritating side effects than other retinoids and why it's so great for acne since a large part of acne is associated with inflammation and redness. So if you have acne this is a great option that you can get your hands on without a prescription.

I collaborated with the lovely @skinchemy who is a cosmetic chemist. Give her a follow for more science-based posts!