The Evolution of Vitamin C Serums: Moving Beyond SkinCeuticals
For years, SkinCeuticals' Vitamin C serum, specifically the CE Ferulic, has been hailed as the gold standard. As an aesthetician and a previous long-time user, I’ve used it professionally and recommended it to countless patients and friends. But as with all things in the world of skincare, advancements in technology and a deeper understanding of ingredients have shown us that even the most beloved products can have their shortcomings.
Let’s dive into why it might be time to reconsider our unwavering loyalty to SkinCeuticals' Vitamin C serum and explore the new horizons in vitamin C ingredients and formulations.
The Hidden Downsides of L-Ascorbic Acid
L-ascorbic acid, the active form of vitamin C used in most serums, including SkinCeuticals, is well-known for its collagen-boosting and skin-brightening properties. However, there’s a lesser-known downside: it can contribute to elastin degradation. Yes, you read that right. I was also mindblown to learn this new piece of information.
“L-ascorbic acid is the most biologically active and well studied. ... studies have also shown that vitamin C inhibits the biosynthesis of elastin.”
Elastin is crucial for skin’s elasticity, and its degradation can lead to sagging and wrinkles. While the benefits of collagen stimulation are often highlighted, the potential negative impact on elastin is rarely discussed. This raises a significant question: is L-ascorbic acid really the best option?
Formula Issues
We’ve all come to accept particular “quirks” of L-ascorbic acid-based vitamin C serums…
The Smell - The distinctive smell is often compared to hot dog water or burnt toast. 🌭
Formula Instability - L-ascorbic acid is inherently unstable, which, after opening, leads to oxidation, turning the serum a burnt orange color and diminishing its efficacy over time.
Packaging—The dropper bottle design risks spilling expensive serum, and it’s open to the air, contributing to oxidation. Also, can I be rude for a sec? A basic stock amber dropper bottle is the cheapest of the cheap and costs literal cents. Can we not evolve and do better with an improved-functioning package? For $182, I might add!
Why have we settled for these compromises? As consumers, we deserve (and demand!) products that are both effective and pleasant to use.
Skin Sensitivity & Ph Levels
Our skin's healthy normal pH is around 5.5. L-ascorbic acid, the pure form of vitamin C, must be at a pH of 3.5 or lower to be effective in skincare formulations. This can be problematic for those with sensitive, reactive, rosacea-prone, or acne-prone skin. Not all individuals can tolerate such a low pH, which can cause irritation or burning, making the product unusable for some. Moreover, the acidic nature can oxidize makeup, altering its color and finish – a significant concern for makeup enthusiasts.
The Importance of Elastin & Collagen
Both elastin and collagen are vital for healthy, youthful skin. Collagen provides structure and firmness, while elastin allows the skin to return to its original shape after stretching or contracting. For optimal skin health, it’s important to support both of these proteins. This holistic approach ensures that we aren't inadvertently harming elastin while we aim to boost collagen.
What About Vitamin C Derivatives?
The good news is that skincare science has advanced, offering us new and improved options for vitamin C delivery. However, not all vitamin Cs are created equal. There are various forms and derivatives of vitamin C, each with unique benefits and stability profiles. A few worth mentioning are sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, and tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (Found in SkinBetter’s Alto Defense and Repair Serum), which are often formulated to be more stable and less irritating than L-ascorbic acid.
However, vitamin C derivatives are generally less potent and effective than L-ascorbic acid. These derivatives must first be converted into L-ascorbic acid by the skin to provide the same benefits, which can reduce their overall efficacy. While they still offer antioxidant protection, collagen stimulation, and skin-brightening effects, they may also degrade elastin over time.
Embrace the New Era of Vitamin C
Introducing a new ingredient that combines the best of both worlds: sodium ascorbate. This innovative form of vitamin C (an organic sodium salt) has been found to provide antioxidant protection, the brightening benefits, and collagen stimulation of traditional L-ascorbic acid serums while preserving and stimulating elastin, ensuring long-term skin health. Sodium ascorbate is a stable ingredient with a skin-friendly pH, making it ideal for those with sensitive skin. Additionally, it has no natural scent. (Yay, for no hot dog water!)
From my research, the only vitamin C currently on the market containing sodium ascorbate can be found in Alastin’s C-Radical Defense Antioxidant Serum. Theirs is also encapsulated in a liposome (a tiny bubble made of fat that carries ingredients) to help the product penetrate the skin more effectively. It comes in an airless pump and also contains 14 other proven antioxidants.
I have been using this serum for the past year, and it seriously is the best vitamin C serum I have ever used. Two pumps after my hyaluronic acid serum, and I am good to go. It doesn’t pill and plays well with other products. I also just can’t believe I recommended something to patients for years that degrades elastin, which is the exact opposite outcome that I want for your face! Gah!
