Coconut Oil
This blog post has been a long time coming! As some of you may or may not know I used to work in product development and education for a coconut-based beauty brand. That being said I know a thing or 27 about coconut oil. I constantly see so much misinformation regurgitated all over the internet about this oil from the good to the bad and the simply untrue.
Through the years as an esthetician, I have been trained that coconut oil is pore-clogging and should not be recommended to clients and to be wary of in products. So when I started working for this company I had A LOT of questions, to say the least! I did a ton of research and reading on my own and had in-depth conversations with the cosmetic chemists I had access to. So let’s start with busting a few of the most common myths…
“Coconut oil is comedogenic.” or “That product contains coconut oil so I can’t use it.”
This really depends! This is by far the number one thing said about coconut oil, however, it’s a blanket statement that doesn’t take into consideration some different factors. Let's acknowledge that 100% coconut oil applied to your skin is very different than using a product that contains say 2% in combination with several other ingredients. Essentially, any ingredient may be “diluted” within a formula by several other ingredients. Keep in mind, comedogenic ingredients don’t necessarily create comedogenic finished products. FORMULATION MATTERS.
Many people refer to the comedogenic index scale when it comes to this oil but to be honest, it isn’t a super reliable measure. The tests are performed on rabbits’ ears or the backs of humans. This can create inaccurate results since it’s not the human face.
Unrefined Virgin/Refined (semi-solid oil) vs. Fractionated (liquid oil)
Unrefined Virgin/Refined coconut oil melts at around 76℉/24℃ and is considered a semi-solid oil. It’s high in long and medium-chain fatty acids. Fractionated coconut oil is always in a liquid state because it has the long-chain fatty acids steam/water distilled out of it. By removing those fatty acids it also removes some of the skin-benefiting lauric acid but it also makes it less comedogenic and a good use for skincare products.
“The molecule of coconut oil is too large to absorbed into the skin.” or “It can’t penetrate pores.”
This statement is false. Coconut oil does not just have "one" molecule and does not have its own molecular size as it is composed of many different molecules. It’s a mixture of several different fats and esters (it’s a mixture of triglycerides that are esters of fatty acids with glycerol).
Besides, our skin is made up of a phospholipid bilayer, which means oils, in general, penetrate the skin much better than water. The skin metabolizes and breaks down oils which allow penetration. This misconception may have started because coconut oil penetrates the skin rather slowly but it does not mean it doesn’t penetrate at all. STOP SAYING THIS, IT’S UNTRUE!
I will also add that it very much depends on your skin’s microbe, to begin with. Sebum, dirt, dead skin cells, yeast, and bacteria are already present on everyone’s skin to start with. So if you have an imbalance or overabundance of any of these things and you slap on a slow penetrating oil it can aid in clogged pores and acne. But it’s not necessarily the oil itself. This is why some skin types like dry skin can use this oil perfectly fine and others like oily skin don’t fare so well.
“Coconut oil can be used as a natural sunscreen.”
No, no, no, and no! Not only is this false and ineffective it is completely unsafe information. And I don’t care what some self-proclaimed health guru on Instagram said! Plant oils are unsuitable for blocking UV rays and they don’t absorb UV rays at the correct wavelengths. If you’d like to read a full article I wrote for Healthline.com on this subject, check out this link.
Would I recommend 100% coconut oil as a moisturizer?
No, I wouldn’t. The reason being is it’s not a well-rounded moisturizer for any skin type and will not provide your skin with all of its needs. The skin needs much more for healthy skin like humectants, emollients, and occlusives.
Would I recommend a product that contains coconut oil or coconut-derived ingredients?
Yes, I would because again comedogenic ingredients don't necessarily create comedogenic finished products. There are skin benefits to this oil like it's anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, providing moisture, and helping to prevent transepidermal water loss. In my opinion, it’s one of those ingredients that are much better within a formula than alone.
What about as a hair mask?
Because I am not a hair expert I asked one of my friends that have been doing hair for over a decade his professional opinion. This was his response… “Coconut oil can cause protein build-up for certain hair types, blocking your hair from much-needed moisture which makes your hair even drier, stiffer, and less elastic. Therefore, using coconut oil as a hair mask can actually make your hair more damaged than it was before.”
Some topical things coconut oil is GOOD for:
A massage oil
Shaving oil for your legs or lady (or man!) parts (particularly if you are prone to irritation.)
A makeup remover (followed by a proper cleanser)
Cuticle oil
Your dog’s dry nose or paws
Sex/personal lube (not for the use with latex condoms)
A body moisturizer (some people find it’s not enough moisture, but others do!)
A bath boost - melt a small amount in your tub for a moisturizing bath
Lastly, it’s important to remember that we all have our own unique skin chemistry so what works for one may not another. I’m also a big fan of using your own sense and knowing your own skin to make decisions about what is best for you!
Have a coconut oil question, ask me!
