AHAs + BHA
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha Hydroxy Acids aka AHAs are naturally occurring compounds found in food that have exfoliating properties for the skin. They work by "un-gluing" dead skin. They have small molecules so they are able to penetrate deep into the layers of the skin.
Glycolic Acid - sugar cane
Lactic Acid - sour milk
Citric Acid - citrus fruits
Malic Acid - apples
Tartaric - fermented grapes
Mandelic - bitter almonds
Beta Hydroxy Acids
Beta Hydroxy Acid aka BHA is a naturally occurring compound and is better known as salicylic acid. This acid is derived from the bark of the willow tree or synthetically created. Salicylic acid is typically found in acne products and is even used to burn off warts in high concentrations.
How do they work?
Both AHAs and BHA work by exfoliating the skin but in different ways. AHAs are water-soluble and for the most part, dissolve surface dead skin cells. While BHA is an oil-loving acid and really gets into the pore to dissolve dead skin cells, sebum, etc. Depending on the desired skin result you are trying to achieve and what types of skin conditions you treating depends on what type of acid you would use.
Both AHAs and BHA are found in skincare products such as toners, treatment serums, masks, spot treatments, and peel pads. They are also found in chemical peels that are performed by estheticians and dermatologists/plastic surgeons. These peels are stronger concentrations and a lower pH.
Stronger is not always better
There are two factors in the strength of an acid product or peel. Its percentage and the pH. For example, in a spa/salon setting a typical peel would be in the 20-35% range with a lower pH to penetrate deeper into the skin. Peels are brushed on to clean skin, left 1-3 minutes, and then removed with water and neutralized. This is to bring the pH of the skin back to the normal 4-5.5 range and stop the exfoliating activity. Now, of course, this could mean a bit of tingling on the skin during the process. I like to refer to this as "burn so good!" For the most part, you will leave with a glow to the skin and should not have peeling or shedding of the skin.
Ideally, for effective daily/weekly skincare products that are left on the skin and not removed like a peel, they should be in the 1%-15% range with a higher pH.
There are deep peels that are performed in dermatologists or plastic surgeon settings that can be pretty aggressive. They usually will have some downtime and true shedding and peeling of the skin. These are for people with deeper pigmentation, acne scars, and wrinkles.
Benefits + what acid(s) are best for my skin type
AHA
AHA's great for restoring moisture and plumpness in the skin
Best for dry, flakey, aging, and preventative for aging
Jumps start collagen production
Reduces fine lines
Minimizes sun spots and hyperpigmentation
BHA
Salicylic acid has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties
Best for rosacea, sensitive, acne-prone skin types
Treats acne, clogged pores, blackheads, and congestion
